I’ve only been to Bologna once, but it left a huge impression.

The first time I visited Bologna, it left a huge impression. 

At that point, I had been to the great Italian cities of Rome, Florence, and Venice. I’d been impressed by the architecture and history on every corner… and I was a little overwhelmed by how many fellow tourists were with me.

Bologna was different. It had crowds but never at a “horde” level. As I walked through the porticoes, it felt like I was as likely to pass by a local living their everyday life as I was another tourist seeking somewhere just a little off the beaten path. I loved relaxing at cafes as the sounds of locals chatting in Italian and clicking their espresso cups with tiny spoons washed over me. I found that comma in between the exclamation points of the trip, and I was absolutely in love. (And don’t worry, Bologna has plenty of exclamation points!)

I later returned to film an episode for “Places to Love” and was ecstatic to learn my initial impression rang true years later. 

For my full episode on Bologna, watch below:

My Travel Guide to Bologna

When to Go

Thanks to the 38 miles of porticoes that wind all around the city, you don’t have to worry too much about the weather impacting your visit. And considering Bologna is still a bit off the tourist radar, it’s not as negatively impacted by high season’s crowds as other Italian cities. 

However, I will warn you that Italian cities as a whole can be pretty brutal to visit come summer, especially if you’re the kind of person that loves blasting the A/C as soon as the temperatures rise above 80F. There is no central A/C here and some buildings may not even have any air flow at all. It can get hot and humid fast!

Where to Stay

If you look at a map, it’ll look like Bologna’s city center is wrapped within a neat circle. Ideally, you’ll want to stay within that circle! For those of you with a bigger budget, drop your bags off at the Grand Hotel Majestic gia Baglioni, the grande dame of Bologna and its only 5-star luxury hotel. 

For something nice but budget-friendly, Hotel Metropolitan checks all the boxes. With stylish common areas, simple but delicious breakfast, modern rooms, and just a few steps off Via dell’Indipendenza, you’re in the heart of it all.

As for just out of the city center, I loved our stay at Boutique Hotel Il Guercino. It has that historic Italian feeling as soon as you step into the courtyard and see its reddish facade.  

Where to Go

Piazza Maggiore

Italian cities are full of charming squares, or piazzas. They’re the perfect places to come, grab a drink, sit outside, and people watch. Bologna is no different, and its main one is Piazza Maggiore. It’s a massive square with three palazzos and the Basilica of San Petronio. Come in the warmer months, and you might be able to catch a film at night – that’s what was happening during my last trip!

Quadrilatero

Right by Piazza Maggiore is Il Quadrilatero, a market area that goes back to the Middle Ages. It’s delightfully bustling as you pass by food sellers, restaurants, and artisan shops. If you need a starting point, start at  Salumeria Simoni. 

University of Bologna

Founded in 1088, the University of Bologna is the oldest university in the Western world! You can do a free, self-guided tour and explore what a millennia of higher education looks like. The Teatro Anatomico is particularly incredible. Back in the day, students could watch bodies being dissected right in the center of the room. You also don’t want to miss the breathtaking library. While you can’t wander through the stacks, you can get a peak of its magnificence through a window.

The Porticoes

As I mentioned above, Bologna has 38 miles of porticoes lining pretty much every street in the city. I recommend just leaving your hotel and following them to see where they take you, but if you want specific sections to explore, see which twelve were made into UNESCO World Heritage Sites. 

Follow a certain route through the porticoes, and you’ll eventually end up at the next spot on this list…

Sanctuary of San Luca

If you love finding the view of a destination, this is where you’ll want to come (especially now since Bologna’s famous towers are indefinitely closed!). The Sanctuary of San Luca sits up on a hill overlooking the city and is absolutely gorgeous for sunset. While you could take the bus or drive there, the light hike from Bologna’s City Centre allows you to enjoy a long section of the porticos.

MAMbo – Museo d’arte contemporanea

When you think of Italian art, great painters like Davinci probably come to mind. However, the contemporary art collection at MAMbo is a nice change of pace. Located in an old bakery, it specializes in Italian art from the end of WWII to the present. 

Museo della Storia di Bologna

This beautiful palace uses super modern technology to deliver fascinating information about Bologna’s past.

Double Trouble Bologna 

For the loveliest souvenir from Bologna, check out Double Trouble Bologna. The company was founded by twin sisters Margherita and Caterina Libouri, and is focused on sustainably handmade, luxury goods. They create their goods from remnants of local Italian tanneries and fabric offcuts from Africa, and each of their designs is made with craftsmanship and longevity in mind. If you only have room for one thing though, their leather pasta keychains were a big hit with my crew, especially the tortellini ones!

Ducati Museum & Factory

Did you know Bologna is the hub city for both Ducati motorcycles? I know, I know… between the food and fast modes of transportation, it’s astounding this city isn’t on more travelers’ radars.

Ducati does a factory tour, allowing guests to watch an active assembly line and peruse the Ducati Museum which has four different exhibition routes. 

Where to Eat

One of Bologna’s many nicknames is La Grassa, which means “the fat one,” and for many foodie travelers, it has a reputation for its iconic cuisine.  Think mortadella, tagliatelle, ragù, tortellini, fritto misto. Fellow food lovers… are you packing your bags yet?

Cesarine Cooking Class

For the most authentic Italian experience, booking a cooking class with Cesarine. This network of home cooks allows visitors to learn about local cuisine through cooking classes held right in their own homes. On my tour, we started off in Quadrilatero to pick up our ingredients and then went to her apartment to make three different types of pastas! 

Ristorante È Cucina Leopardi

Do you hear “prix fixe menu” and automatically hear ca-ching! Not at È Cucina. This restaurant concept from chef Cesare Marretti offers three surprise menus daily—one for meat-eaters, one for pescatarians, and one for vegetarians. 

Mercato delle Erbe

I love a good food hall—with a bunch of vendors and restaurants housed in one space, you make great use of precious travel time. At Mercato delle Erbe, you’ll find pizzerias, charcuterie bars, restaurants, and more. Visit Polpette e Crescentine for fresh pasta, meatballs, local cheeses, and crescentine fritte, fried, lightly salted dough pillows. Vini e Sapuri does excellent charcuterie and wines; Formaggeria Bernardi makes incredible cheese.

Ristorante Da Cesari

I don’t know about you, but if an Italian grandma offers to make me dinner, I am going for it! This family-run restaurant still has nonna rolling out fresh tortelloni stuffed with ricotta, topped with freshly shaved truffles; green ravioli stuffed with rabbit, served with butter and smoked goat cheese; and delicious homemade panna cotta.

Tamburini

Welcome to wine, cheese, and meat heaven. Open for over 80 years, this iconic shop is an experience not to be skipped. If you prefer, grab a seat at their wine bar for more of a traditional restaurant experience.

Nearby Bologna

Bologna is so close to many of Italy’s most notable destinations. Staying here puts you within an easy commute of the following places.

Modena: 35 minutes
Why Go: A lot of reasons, which you can find here. But let me just throw these names out there – Pavarotti, Parmigiano Reggiano, Stanguellini, balsamic vinegar, and lambrusco wine!

Florence: 35 minutes
Why Go: The Duomo, the Uffizi Palace, the bridges, the Piazza della Signoria, the Boboli Gardens, and David, the most beautiful man to be carved in stone… need I say more?

Venice: 1.5 hours
Why go: It’s one of the most storied and romantic cities in the world—one of a kind. If you’re thinking of coming in winter, see if you can time your visit with Carnevale.

Milan: 1 hour
Why Go: The Duomo Milano, the Last Supper (book ahead or good luck!), Sforza Castle, and of course, the fashion! Check out the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II; it’s the fanciest mall I’ve ever had the pleasure of window shopping in. Also if you’re flying internationally, I find I prefer landing in Milan than taking the train to my next destination if I’m planning to be around the northern half of Italy. 

Pisa: 2 hours
Why Go:  I don’t know if a four-hour roundtrip is worth it for the iconic “I’m holding up the tower!” tourist photo. But it may be to you, and who am I to judge?

Have I convinced you to add Bologna into your Italian itinerary? 

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