Auckland is known as the city of sails. Did you know one in four Aucklanders owns a boat? As with most places centered around a body of water, you really need to get out on the Waitematā Harbour to truly experience the city. Not just for another perspective of the city, but to enjoy one of their favorite past times: sailing. I joined Peter Lester, one of the biggest names in the sport. He’s sailed in two America’s Cup tournaments, coached a team, and now serves as a commentator for the sport. We sailed the harbor with Explore Group on an impressive 50-foot monohull, with a crew of five. Peter showed me how to hoist the sail on these huge sailboats, and I think my arms are still sore many months later. Don’t let your favorite yacht rock hits confuse you—sailing is hard work!

Named after a thoroughfare in Beirut’s bustling center, Gemmayze Street celebrates Lebanese food shot through a Kiwi prism. Chef Samir Allen’s Lebanese ancestors arrived in New Zealand 130-years ago. Today, he draws inspiration from the culinary dishes and traditions of Lebanon, influenced by working in New Zealand’s kitchens. Get the most out of a meal here by ordering jeeb, meaning bring in Arabic. Dishes, selected by the kitchen, just arrive—no ordering required. Tables of seven or more must order the ‘jeeb’ set menu. Smaller groups may order a la carte if desired, but trust me—if you don’t do the jeeb, you are missing out!

Less than a 15 minute walk from the city center, Auckland Domain is the perfect place for a hike, complete with views of Auckland. I had the great please of exploring the park with Paora Puru, a local Māori guide. Paora gives a tour unlike any other – one that’s good for history and your soul. Where I saw a park with beautiful trees and soccer fields, he sees the place where his ancestors once were, and where they continue to inhabit. The Maori people believe that the environment and their people are one in the same. One thing he said that really stuck with me: humans are sacred, and our environment is sacred. We as humans must humble ourselves to nature. If nature is unwell, humans cannot be well, either.

One of my most memorable experiences from Auckland? Enjoying kava and conversation at 4 Shells with owners Todd and Anau Henry. Kava is a drink prepared from the root of piper methysticum, commonly grown in the South Pacific. Kava has been consumed as a beverage for thousands of years, and it’s revered for its spiritual, cultural and healing values for many South Pacific communities. There are hundreds of different kava cultivars, each with a slightly different flavor and effect. The one I drank took immediate affect—my mouth, chest, then legs and feet felt tingly and relaxed. Many people report sleepiness after consuming. Maybe this is the jet-lag cure I’ve been looking for!

This might surprise you, but I’ve always wanted to play rugby just to know what it feels like to be in a scrum. That’s when the teams huddle up with their heads down, attempting to gain possession of the ball. I tried this and much more on my outing with the semi-pro female rugby league team, the Warriors. Captain Georgia Hale and teammate Kathleen Wharton explained what makes rugby so fun to watch (hint: it’s very physical, and I had the bruises to prove it). I joined them for passing, tackling and kicking (and missing) drills. Even though this was the first time I’d played rugby, I felt like a part of the team right away. Well, a bench-warming part of the team anyhow.

Auckland’s hilly neighborhoods lead to main thoroughfares of local shops and restaurants, making is an idyllic place for an afternoon stroll… Especially one that ends at an ice cream parlor. Giapo isn’t your typical scoop shop. Here, nothing is as expected. Instead of posted flavors, or case where you can check out flavor offerings, a “host” invites you to their station. You’ll first learn about, then sample, ice cream creations. Chefs prepare your frozen treat, with a serious attention to detail. You may order a cone that looks like colossal chocolate squid, or a cone that comes with its own picture frame. It’s a dessert experience you will not soon forget.

Even though the natural surrounds of Auckland are quite lovely, I craved getting out of the city to experience the incredible coastline. Piha is just an hour away, but with the narrow and winding roads, it feels quite remote. Those who venture here are rewarded with a dramatic black-sand beach, bookended by rugged cliffs. It’s also a popular surfing location (fun fact: surfing came here in 1952 by way of some California surfers). Though the water’s strong current made me anxious, I couldn’t resist taking a surf lesson. I eventually stood up on my board and rode a wave to shore. Incredible.

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