Your first view of Sligo will stop you dead in your tracks—it looks like something out of a Yeats poem. And that’s precisely because it is. Though William Butler Yeats penned his masterpieces between the 1880s and his death in 1939, a great deal of the landscape has been untouched in the years since.

On my trip, I met up with Damien Brennan, a Yeats historian and the Chairperson of the Yeats International Summer School Committee. His love of Yeats is infectious, and his tours are a must for literary and history lovers. If you’re not sure about all this poetry stuff, I suggest booking one of Damien’s Yeats Evenings. Held in his modern farmhouse, guests will enjoy a lovely dinner, paired with the poetry. Don’t be surprised when dinner is followed by “The Noble Call,” an Irish house custom where the host calls on others to lend a song, a poem, a dance to the evening.

Growing up on New Hampshire’s sea coast, I never dreamed of eating seaweed. Donegal County resident Prannie Rhatigan changed my mind! A doctor with a passion for studying the benefits of live foods, Prannie grew up foraging and cooking sea vegetables. I had the great pleasure of harvesting sea spaghetti, kelp and sea lettuce from the region’s subtidal pools. I couldn’t believe how flavorful these plants were straight out of the ocean! Interestingly (though not surprisingly), seaweed is seasonal, with different types at peak flavor at different times. Packed with nutrients, it’s one of the world’s most perfect foods.

Ireland has no shortage of B&Bs, but there’s something special about Drumcorroy House. This Failte Ireland Farmhouse, near Donegal Town, offers spectacular views of the Blue Stack Mountains and Barnesmore Gap, County Donegal. Not only that, but owners Martina and Patsy O’Sullivan invite guests to join them on their farm, watching the suckler cows, sheep, and their hard working border collies. Add in a traditional Irish breakfast and you may never want to leave this lovely place.

At 16, Eddie Doherty learned how to weave Donegal’s signature tweed textiles by hand. This was back in 1956, when he believes there were about 150 artisans weaving by hand. Today, he’s the only one left, using Donegal wool to hand weave pure wool blankets and tweed. It was an honor to watch this intricate and disappearing craft in person.

You’ll find one of the most remote gastropubs in the country in Donegal. Owned and operated by Maresa and Enda McDonagh, The Rusty Nail specializes in locally sourced fare. They’re known for their seafood chowder, made with fish that’s so fresh you can still taste the ocean. You’ll also find local favorites like ham hock and apple potato cake, parsnip puree, wholegrain mustard and tarragon vinaigrette; and grilled 30-day aged sirloin steak. On Sundays, they host live traditional music sessions every Sunday. It’s a destination to be sure, and worth the effort.

Deep sea fisherman turned archaeologist Paddy Clarke has made his passion for the landscape a viable business. Along with his wife Siobhan, he runs Slieve League Cliffs Centre, dedicated to celebrating the region’s natural beauty, as well as local culture, food and crafts.

Rising almost 2000 feet from the Atlantic, the majestic Slieve League cliffs are over twice as high as the famed Cliffs of Mohar, and so remote that they’ve remained largely untouched. Paddy leads heritage, archaeological, and boat trip tours under the cliffs. You can arrange for kayaking around the coast as well. Back at the center, you might catch Paddy making coffee drinks at cafe Ti Linn, or his wife baking scones, cakes, cookies, as well as delicious soups and salads.

In the picturesque village of Meenaleck, you’ll find Tabhairne Leo (aka Leo’s Tavern). Sure, the pints and food are great, but it’s the music that put this place on the map. Originally opened by Leo and Maire Brennan in 1968 as an entertainment venue, music always played an important role in their family. The family was a major part of the famous group Clannad and from there Moya and Enya went on to become world famous solo musicians:. You just may find these women performing in Gaelic at Leo’s! Today, the Brennan’s youngest son Bartley continues to run the business. Now completely renovated, Leo’s is the premier destination entertainment bar in the North West of Ireland.

Donegal is full of romantic things to do. My favorite? Exploring the seaside on horseback. We rode on the beach at Tullagh Bay, with breathtaking views of Malin Head– the most northern point of the entire Island of Ireland. Book your own magical journey with Tullagh Bay Equestrian.

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